Case Layout and Details
The part you surely have all been waiting for, the case itself. I have made mention in the past about large side windows on other cases, but this is the largest by far.
As you can see there is no boarder, it is all side panels and it is not fiber glass or plastic, all tempered glass.
The front of the case is oddly enough also tempered glass, but if you thought that was incredibly odd, the backside of the case also has a tempered glass panel.
Yeah, the back was not ignored in this build. So how does she look inside?
Opening her up, she is very clean and like the outside, a nice matte black finish.
We can see from here the 3 x 140mm white LED fans and the single 140mm white LED fan on the rear. We can also see the cutout for seating a rear mounted CPU backplate and yeah, it of course opens to another glass panel. We also find on the power supply cover, rubber grommet to feed the power supply cables through and just to the right of that we find SATA Cable cover, could on some motherboards be an ATX 24Pin connection cover as well.
Just so that you have a different angle so that you can see what I mean about cover. In this picture and the previous you also noticed that there are stand-offs already installed, not only are they installed for you but the motherboard tray marks what the stand-off hole is for.
Here you can see that stand-off is for ATX and Micro-ATX/ITX.
This one below, with no stand-off screwed into it right now is for Micro-ATX and Micro-ITX type boards.
Towards the bottom of the case, again we can find the again the rubber grommet for the power supply cable and the edge where the motherboard can sit. I ran in to a problem here, but you will see in the next chapter where you can see how to build a machine in this case, I was able to resolve the problem but please pay attention to it to help you solve the problem if you run into it.
Coming around to the back, we find some more nice features; we will start from the bottom.
Here is where you will slide in the power supply. You slide in the power supply from the side and fit it into the back where you will screw in the 4 or 5 screws.
Notice there are 4 stands here where the power supply will stand on top of. The top of rubber for anti-vibration to make sure there is a little noise as possible. Just remember the power supply can only be up to 200mm or 7.8 inches.
A little to the left and in the same compartment of the power supply, we find where we can house 3 x 3.5in drives.
Right above where you would sit the power supply, we find the 3 hidden compartments for 2.5in drives. This is a nice tucked away spot to hide some SSD’s or 2.5” mechanical hard drives.
Moving up to the top left hand corner of the case, we find the fan controller.
You can connect 5 fans to this controller, 3 of the fans from the front, and 1 in the rear you have space for another. The 6th connection connects to a molex connection on the power supply to provide power for the controller to distribute. In the build video on the next chapter I show you how to plug this in, in case you are unsure what a molex connection is and how to connect it.
This is what it looks like for reference.
On the left of the case, we can see all of the cables leading to the front panel ports coming out and nicely strapped in to help for cable management. This also aids in allowing for the side panel to be a little easier to screw in since the spot is recessed.
Aside from the Molex I have just shown you, the other cables that come in this bundle are from the USB 3.0 header.
Also the USB 2.0 header
The HD Audio header
The front panel headers for the Power Switch, Power LED, Reset Switch and HDD LED headers.
You will also notice the side, which is the same on both sides has vents to allow for cool air to enter the case, since the front of the case is solid glass. These vents are a little thicker than most which aids in noise reduction.
Adding to the noise reduction theme this case focuses on, each corner of the case where the side panels are screwed in on both sides of the case has these. The glass panel rests into these rubber pieces that not only keeps it from vibrating, but also protects the glass then allows you to screw in the thumb screws which also are rubber padded to make sure the grass is not scratched. Small touches, but they add up.
Coming around the top, we find some buttons and ports.
First off, to control the fans we have we have the slider.
Here are the settings
L = Low Mode which provides 5Volts to the controller which will dim or raise the lighting of course depending on which mode you came from previously and will also of course raise or lower the fan speed.
S = Silent Mode which provides 0 Volts to the controller, turning off the fans and with it the light the LED provide.
H – High Mode which provides 12 volts to the controller raising the fan speed, increasing the lighting to the LED lights and with that increases the noise, but barely.
To the right of the slider we find the 2 x 3.5mm headphone and microphone jacks.
To the right of the jacks, we find the power and reset buttons.
These are not mere spring loaded recessed buttons, they have a tactile feedback when pressed providing a solid feel. The buttons seem to be made out of metal or very hard plastic, while the white boarders are clear.
They are also illuminated, would you think they wouldn’t illuminate this beauty?
And finally, to the right of the power and reset buttons, we have 4 USB ports, 2 USB 3.0 and 2 x USB 2.0, these are always welcome, the more the merrier I’d say.
Then coming around the back, we find the IO shield.
Usually the IO Shield on the back of the case is recessed, but not in this case. This could potentially be a good thing for oversized thumb drives or USB connections. I don’t see a bad side to this, do you?
Another thing is that there is a PCI-E slot locking mechanism here as well.
You can still reach the screws for the PCI-E slots, but you can’t do anything with them after you have unscrewed them.
Here is what it looks like inside of the case
Since the case is not recessed like I mentioned for the IO cover, it is not recessed for the PCI-E cards, so you can only access the screws from the outside. Now with that thumbscrew removed, you can easily access the PCI-E slot covers by sliding over that locking mechanism.
Now if you remove the thumb screw that holds it in place, you can slide the lip over exposing the actual PCI-E slot covers.
Here is what it looks like inside of the case with the lip flipped out.
There still are more spots we need to focus on, and since we have the case opened already, that will bring us into our next section, in how to build inside of this case.