How to build inside of the Anidees AI-Crystal
This section is only on building inside of the Anidees AI-Crystal case.
Here is the list of parts I used in this build.
- Anidees AI Crystal Case: http://prourls.co/ygdb
- Intel Core i7 5930K: http://azon.ly/4C8Itd
- EVGA X99 Classified: http://azon.ly/E9eamo
- Arctic Liquid Freezer 240MM Liquid Cooling: http://azon.ly/vEaJAf
- Kingston HyperX Predator 3000Mhz 16Gig: http://azon.ly/w9kPe5
- Sapphire Nitro R9 390 Video card: http://azon.ly/klUObl
- Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD: http://azon.ly/1gf0fs
- Hitachi 1TB SATA 3G HD: http://azon.ly/pU2QOo
- Patriot Ignite 480GB SSD: http://azon.ly/eoPVsG
- Kingston HyperX 240GB SSD: http://azon.ly/8leEDW
- Plextor 256GB PCIE SSD: http://azon.ly/gVBR
- Cooler Master silent Pro Gold 1200W Gold Power Supply: http://azon.ly/Umwm
- LG WH16NS40 BluRay Rewriter: http://azon.ly/60fP
- MicrosoftWindows 10 Professional: http://azon.ly/GYbBRY
In this first video, I show you all the parts I will be using in this build, though I listed it just above. I show you here how to install the Intel Core i7 5930K processor, as well as install the Kingston HyperX Predator 3000Mhz RAM and the Arctic Liquid Freezer 240mm Liquid Cooling unit onto the EVGA X99 Classified motherboard. I also show you how I apply the thermal paste, in this case I use Thermal Grizzly’s Kryonaut thermal paste. The method I use to apply the paste is not the end all be all method of applying thermal paste but it is the way I have successfully applied thermal paste for years, why change now right?
Here I ran into an issue where the 90 degree angles of my PCI-E lan power connector and USB 3.0 headers were rendered useless being that the board touches the bottom of the case, the power supply cover. Usually there is a cutout for this sort of issue, but not in this case, please be warned this is a potential issue though if you are determined like I was, I was able to get around it. For such a beautiful case at such a nice price, sometimes you need to work a little harder. If you don’t know how, this 2nd video will show you how I did it.
In that video, I show you that I had to remove the rivets around the bottom of the power supply, then I had to dremel the case to cut open the bottom to allow for cables to connect. Mind you, the only reason I had to do this was my EVGA X99 Classified board has 90 degree angled PCI-E power, to provide extra power to the PCI-E lanes if you had had 3 or 4 video cards, usually for 4 cards and it had the header for the USB 3.0 port angled as well. If your board does not have ports angled at the bottom of the board, then you would have no issues what so ever. For this I used the Dremel 3000, if you don’t have one, get one.
Let me give you a better example of what I mean.
There you can see the EVGA X99 Classified seated in the case, but those 2 highlighted ports are flush on the bottom of the power supply housing. Let’s zoom in a little more to see why there is an issue.
So this is the board. It might look normal, but if you hold it up so that I can see it on its side.
You can see that underneath is where you would plug in the connectors and why this would not work in this configuration. You might be safe, but in my case I was not, so I had to make it work and in that video you see how I made it work.
Here you can see the case without the board installed.
Here you can see how it looked like afterwards, and after I slid in the door guards. Much nicer I think.
After that, I installed the motherboard and power supply and then I attempted to install the liquid cooling unit onto the top of the case, but yet again the motherboard got in the way. The way that this board has the 8 PIN CPU power connections placed dead in the center at the top of the board did not allow for the Arctic Freezer 240MM liquid cooling unit to be installed at the top, not to mention this board has 2 x 8 PIN CPU power connections. It used to provide the CPU more power for times when you overclock incredibly high, I might sometime so I connected both.
This is the top of the board.
No some might say that the heatsinks got in the way, but sadly they did not, the 2 set of fans would have sat directly on these connections. Most board have these connections on the far left of the board, but no, EVGA decided to put them right in the center…. Oh well, so let’s move onto the 3rd video.
In this video, I show you how to install the 3 x 3.5in drives, my mechanical drives.
Then I went on to show you how I installed my 3 x 2.5in SSD drives
All 6 drives were hidden on the backside of the case, out of site and out of mind. Impress your friends with a driveless system.
Now onto the video where I show you how I plug everything in and cable the entire machine.
I start off by showing you how I plug in my fans, then how I installed the fans I pulled from the front of the case in favor of my liquid cooling unit. Afterwards, I connected the SSD’s and mechanical drives.
Then I move on to install the SATA cables and then fall into the last video in the cabling series.
Here I show you how I connect the USB 3.0 cable in my nice new cut out. Since I cut it out, I decided to connect all my cables through this cut out. I ended up feeding the PCI-E cables from the rubber grommet, though I could have hidden the cables through the same hidden opening I slid the SATA and 24Pin ATX connections through.
In this video, I did end up showing you how to install a PCI-E SSD and the video card and how to power both.
Ok, now that everything is connected and together, I put together a show case on how everything looks like before I installed everything and afterwards, a showcasing if you will.
And here she is in all her glory, at night with the fans lit and without the side panel.
I placed the SATA/24Pin cover back on, so you cannot tell any drives are connected, no sloppy SATA cables here, barely any cables actually.
Here’s a little before and after,
Coming around the top, you can see I removed the top filter, so you can see the fans.
Around the front, I removed the front panel, which completely comes off, no cables holding it in place to show you how the front filter is removed. You can’t tell because the bottom fan is lit in my configuration, but the filter does go over it too.
The original configuration has the 3 front fans all with white LED lights, but because of the issues I had, I had to move those to the top.
This is the backside of the case.
The bottom under the power supply also has a filter, you don’t want dust getting in your power supply do you?
With all these filters, fans and glass, it must be loud right? Well, I will let you decide.
OK, so now what did I think of this case? You can find out in the Final Thoughts and conclusion section…